Whittier to Seward: The Second Half of Our Alaska Itinerary
Picking up where 'Talkeetna to Denali' left off — this leg is proof that the best parts of a trip are rarely the ones you plan. Girdwood, Whittier, Seward, a midnight helicopter booking, and a marine tour that stole the whole week.
Trip Snapshot
🍂 Best Time: Mid September
Where We Stayed
Seward
Coastal and the perfect base for marine tours and glacier hikes.
Wildlife We Saw
🫎 Moose 🦭 Seals 🦦 Otters 🦅 Bald eagles 🦭 Sea lions 🐻 Bear 🐦 Puffins 🐑 Dall sheep
Worth Knowing
✓ Whittier tunnel runs on a schedule
✓ Rain gear is essential
✓ Book glacier tours in advance
✓ Seward is a great Kenai Fjords base
✓ Wildlife viewing was incredible
Friday — Girdwood & Whittier
I always leave room for spontaneous decisions during our trips, and today was the day we got to reap that reward. After a few hangry days in Denali, I made a midnight purchase that I was convinced was going to turn into buyer’s remorse: a helicopter tour with Alpine Air Alaska.
It ended up being one of the best decisions we made the entire trip.
Riding above the mountains and looking down is genuinely indescribable — the photos really don’t do it justice. We saw a big bull moose scratching his antlers before landing directly on a glacier, where we drank from a pool of meltwater and walked around exploring the crevasses. The ice crackled constantly beneath our feet. If you’ve ever walked on compacted sleet after a rain-and-snow storm, that’s the closest sound I can compare it to. We were in the middle of these mountains, just little tiny creatures drinking water and walking amongst an extremely old glacier.
Where I felt like a tiny little creature.
We landed in an alpine patch at 3,200 feet. The ground was strangely spongy underfoot — how I imagine walking on the moon might feel. Fresh berries were growing around us, which we picked and ate on the spot. We joked that we were eating bear food. On the flight back, we spotted Dall sheep and a bear running into the woods.
From there, we drove from Girdwood to Whittier, traveling 2.5 miles through a tunnel under the mountain. The tunnel operates on a schedule, so be sure to check the times before making the drive. We stopped for coffee, walked around the harbor, and said hi to a seal.
One of the fascinating things about Whittier is that much of the town’s population lives in the same building. It gives an entirely different meaning to the word remote. Even getting into Whittier is unusual — the tunnel connecting road traffic to town didn’t open to vehicles until 2000. Before that, access was primarily by boat or train.
We then drove to Exit Glacier, part of Kenai Fjords National Park, and took the Glacier View and Overlook trails. Along the walk are markers showing where the glacier reached during different years. Seeing those markers in person really puts into perspective how far the glacier has retreated over time.
On the way back, we watched two bald eagles and a hawk circling right across from our Airbnb.
We had dinner at Flamingo Lounge in Seward. This is a must-go! The ambience is uniquely retro, with walls lined with a collection of liquor decanters and old whiskey bottles. Fantastic food, but even better drinks.
Saturday — Kenai Fjords Marine Tour
This was a major highlight of the entire trip. We took an all-day marine tour out to Aialik Glacier, Spire Cove, and several small islands. Lunch and a drink were included, with additional snacks, drinks, and alcohol available onboard. One of our good friends had worked for the company and recommended the tour to us, and it did not disappoint.
We started strong — sea otters and two bald eagles right away. And then we reached Spire Cove. The jagged spires, sheer cliffs, and aquamarine water crashing against solid rock made it feel like we’d entered another world. I completely understand why people describe this part of Alaska as having Jurassic Park vibes.
As we got closer to Aialik Glacier, the water began filling with chunks of glacier and the temperature dropped significantly. Naturally, I had to make at least one “Iceberg, straight ahead!” joke. We passed several seal families basking on little ice islands and sea otters floating in the cold water. Then we got to watch the glacier calve. I even caught some of it on camera. I wasn’t prepared for the sound. You hear this enormous crashing noise as pieces of the glacier break away and fall into the water.On the way back, we saw sea lions — a few of them very loudly making sure we noticed them — and a couple of puffins.
After the boat ride, we decided we wanted a relaxing date night. Back at the Airbnb, we took hot showers, ordered pizza, and watched the sunset over the lake. These are the best date nights to us. We picked a playlist and sat together eating pizza while the rain misted over Derby Cove.
After a day filled with glaciers, wildlife, and some of the most incredible scenery we’d ever seen, somehow this quiet little moment was exactly what we needed. Later that evening, we went moose-searching. We were bound and determined to find a moose closer. And we did. We found a mom with two babies walking right down the road past us. She was massive, and the babies already looked the size of full-grown horses. We drove out toward Exit Glacier again and found another mom and baby eating. It was so cool seeing animals that large right next to us.
Spire Cove
Sunday — Seward
We slept in, checked out of the Airbnb, and got coffee at Resurrection Coffee. One thing I loved about Seward was how much the town seemed to prioritize locals. We noticed several places offering a “locals” line, which I loved.
We did a little shopping around Seward before heading out for one more hike — Ptarmigan Lake Trail.
We hiked 7.1 miles in pouring rain. The trail gave us beautiful mountain views, a river full of salmon, and eventually the lake itself. We finally saw the pink salmon we’d expected to see after days of spotting mostly gray, stone-colored fish.
Somewhere along the way, I also managed to fall near a fairly significant drop-off and scare the cuss out of my husband. Thankfully: no broken bones, no torn ligaments — just an impressive bruise and a funny story after the fact.
By the time we finished, we were soaked from head to toe and our shoes were literally squishing. Still worth it. The hike had been recommended to us by a friend, and we’d absolutely recommend it too.
Before You Go
Book the helicopter and marine tours in advance. Both were genuine highlights of the trip, not just filler activities.
Check the Whittier tunnel schedule before you go. You can’t simply drive through whenever you arrive.
Pack for rain no matter what the forecast says. Ptarmigan Lake taught us that one.
Leave some room in the itinerary. One of our favorite experiences of the entire trip came from a midnight impulse purchase that wasn’t part of the original plan.
Looking Back
If the first half of this trip taught us how much Alaska rewards flexibility, the second half showed us exactly why we left room for it. The helicopter ride wasn’t part of the original plan. Neither were some of the drives, wildlife encounters, or quiet evenings that ended up becoming my favorite memories.
I wouldn’t change going in September. I’d just go into it knowing more.
Missed the first half? Read “Talkeetna to Denali: The First Half of Our Alaska Itinerary” for where this trip started.